Mauser Serial Numbers K98

C649RIA New Member. Nearly every part of an early war Mauser was numbered using at least the last 2 numbers of the serial number. To be all matching all the parts need to match. The stock is laminated / plywood. Coreldraw graphics suite x4 key. You need to consult a good reference book or an expert on German WWII 98 Mausers in order to determine if this is indeed a numbers matching.

I'm no Mauser expert, but it looks as tho you have a WWII era rifle, the Krauts used a code to identify which factory made it, (I believe Mauser was 'byf') You should also see a 'Waffenampt' stamp, which is an eagle over a Swastika, that was the acceptance stamp for issue to the armed forces. These 81 year old eyes don't see as well as they once did, but I could make out a '41' stamp on the receiver, that most likely is the year of manufacture. Being an early war year, it is likely very well made, and the parts are all polished, unlike late war models.

(We Krauts are proud of our workmanship!) That rifle, assuming the bore and action is good and well cared for, is worth serious money to a collector. All the German ammo, as far as I know, used corrosive, (Mercuric) primers, which is very hard on all components, if not cleaned/flushed with water and bore cleaner, and then lightly oiled after firing. (In that regard, the Japs were smart, as most of their early rifles had chrome-plated bores and bolt faces, which were resistant to primer fouling. An old friend of mine.

Who had served as a Marine in the South Pacific gave me a 7.7 Arisaka he had brought back from the war. It had sat outside, in his garage, for over 30 years, and the bore was so bad you couldn't see thru it! Believe it or not, 2 or 3 cleaning patches, and a brass bore brush later, the bore was pristine! You should see how that old rifle still shoots!) As the War progressed, the Germans could no longer get and use brass cases for their rifle ammo, and had to resort to using mild steel for the ammo cases. This was harder on all the action components, as even the bullets later contained whatever was available. I'm sure there are many more well-versed martial arms collectors/members on the Forum, who will be able to give you better info, my knowledge on these is limited. I'm no Mauser expert, but it looks as tho you have a WWII era rifle, the Krauts used a code to identify which factory made it, (I believe Mauser was 'byf') You should also see a 'Waffenampt' stamp, which is an eagle over a Swastika, that was the acceptance stamp for issue to the armed forces.

These 81 year old eyes don't see as well as they once did, but I could make out a '41' stamp on the receiver, that most likely is the year of manufacture. Being an early war year, it is likely very well made, and the parts are all polished, unlike late war models.

(We Krauts are proud of our workmanship!) That rifle, assuming the bore and action is good and well cared for, is worth serious money to a collector. All the German ammo, as far as I know, used corrosive, (Mercuric) primers, which is very hard on all components, if not cleaned/flushed with water and bore cleaner, and then lightly oiled after firing. (In that regard, the Japs were smart, as most of their early rifles had chrome-plated bores and bolt faces, which were resistant to primer fouling. An old friend of mine. Who had served as a Marine in the South Pacific gave me a 7.7 Arisaka he had brought back from the war. It had sat outside, in his garage, for over 30 years, and the bore was so bad you couldn't see thru it! Adobe photoshop cs5 language pack engb google drive software. Believe it or not, 2 or 3 cleaning patches, and a brass bore brush later, the bore was pristine!

You should see how that old rifle still shoots!) As the War progressed, the Germans could no longer get and use brass cases for their rifle ammo, and had to resort to using mild steel for the ammo cases. This was harder on all the action components, as even the bullets later contained whatever was available. I'm sure there are many more well-versed martial arms collectors/members on the Forum, who will be able to give you better info, my knowledge on these is limited. As you can see the values depend on condition and originality. Nearly every part of an early war Mauser was numbered using at least the last 2 numbers of the serial number.

Mauser serial numbers k98 for sale

To be all matching all the parts need to match. The stock is laminated / plywood. You need to consult a good reference book or an expert on German WWII 98 Mausers in order to determine if this is indeed a numbers matching bring back or pre 68 import. Pre 68 imports did not require a mark. Both are very desirable as opposed to put together from parts gun. One other thing to consider is if it is a Mitchell Mauser.